|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
The Usumacinta is the most voluminous river in Mexico and affords one of the greatest river journeys in the world. Join our rafting/kayaking expedition as we make our way down its canyons and camp on giant pristine beaches, visit Mayan ruins at Yáxchilan and Piedras Negras, enjoy the travertine falls of Busiljá and Chocoljá, and navigate the big-water rapids of Cañon San José. This trip is suitable for intermediate/novice paddlers. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Río Usumacinta is the most voluminous river in Mexico and forms part of the border with Guatemala. Draining a large chunk of Chiapas and Guatemala, it averages ~3000 cms (~100,000 cfs) in the rainy season and 800-1500 cms (30,000-50,000 cfs) in the drier winter months. Due to the reliable big water, canyons, Mayan ruins, and other interesting aspects along the river, it became one of the ultimate rafting journeys in the world, and a prime winter destination of many Grand Canyon guides starting in the 1970s. Unfortunately, in the 1990s the Guatemalan civil war led to a large number of displaced militants taking refuge in the jungles near the banks of the river. Without much of a future or source of income, many turned to robbery, sometimes assaulting rafting parties floating down the river. The problem intensified enough that all commercial operators stopped their trips by 1997. Since then, almost no paddle tourists have ventured down the river - those that have gone were on motorboats. Well, the war ended in the late 1990s, yet the paddle tourists haven't returned. In early 2010, Rocky solo kayaked a 330-mile journey down the Jatate through the Usumacinta to determine whether the region might be secure enough to start trips again. [Read an article he wrote about the Usumacinta here.] By all accounts of the folks he talked to on his trip, the dangers have subsided. The Guatemalan army stationed close to Piedras Negras pursued and nabbed the notorious bandits 10 years ago. Few or no assaults have taken place since then despite increasing tourist traffic. Two recent raft-support SierraRios trips confirmed that the river is safe for raft support again - see summary slideshows of these trips at: Usumacinta2011a and Usumacinta2011b. These trips were great successes. Read some comments from participants. Other operators are starting to run trips as well (see ExploraChiapas). [For an excellent book discussing all aspects of this river including the assaults, rapids, the Maya, trade routes, ruins, plans for damming, and wildlife, see Christopher Shaw's Sacred Monkey River. ] |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Usumacinta river trip is one of the classics in the world and not to be missed. Relax in the hot winter sunshine on giant beaches, swim in warm clean water, traipse through the tropical jungle to spot toucans and scarlet macaws, shreik from the horrifying gaspy calls of howler monkeys, visit two major Mayan arqueological sites, play on massive waves in canyons that squeeze the river to narrow widths, and demonstrate your whitewater skills by surfing waves, running the small falls on Río Chocoljá, and staying upright in giant whirlpools. Everyone is welcome: kayakers, IKers, oarsmen, and raft passengers. We plan to have several rafts to support our group, so even beginners can take a shot at paddling a kayak. The pace is relaxed, with one layover day planned. Bring your own boat or use one of ours (check availability of boats with Rocky). | ![]() |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| OTHER ATTRACTIONS: Chiapas is full of natural wonders and Mayan ruins. See this slideshow for a taste of a few main attractions. While you are down here, you definitely will want to visit the ruins of Palenque and possibly also check out some other paddling runs. Greg Schwendinger's MayanWhitewater.com website has descriptions of many runs, including class III Río Chocoljá and class III Río Shumuljá. Also, if you are competent enough (class IV or V kayaker), you might consider joining Rocky for kayak descents of Ríos Santo Domingo, Paxilhá, Agua Azul, lower Tulijá, and possibly some new exploratories. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
TENTATIVE ITINERARY: Mar 23 (Fri): DAY 0: fly into Villahermosa; Rocky meets you; transport to Palenque; night in Hotel San Catarino DAY 0 (Mar23): If flying, you should arrive at Villahermosa airport this day. We will pick you up and take you to the first night lodging in Villahermosa or Palenque (double or triple rooms included in trip price). There are ATMs available to get pesos. Rocky can exchange some dollars for you. DAY 1 (Mar24): We will make our way to Frontera Corozal (our put-in on the Mexican side of the Usumacinta). There is a possibility to visit the ruins of Bonampak for a few hours enroute. At the put-in, we will rig the rafts and plan to launch, getting downstream 6-20 km, perhaps to Yaxchilán. If we don't launch (such as if we have some delays or visit Bonampak), we will stay in Escudo Jaguar cabañas by the launch site. You can leave valuables in the vehicles, which will be safe with our shuttle drivers in Frontera until the day we take-out. DAY 2 (Mar25): We will paddle to and spend the morning at Yaxchilán ruins. In the afternoon we then paddle through the first class II rapids on our way to a large beach camp. DAY 3 (Mar26): At Playa Grande we will explore trails to some pristine cenote-type lakes on the Guatemalan side. Then we'll make our way down to Piedras Negras, passing the village of Arroyo Jerusalén and negotiating more class II rapids in a scenic gorge. We'll set up camp at Piedras Negras. DAY 4 (Mar27): LAYOVER. We'll check in with the military and spend the day at the ruins of Piedras Negras, playing in the water, practicing rolls and other paddling techniques, or simply relaxing in camp. [The layover day can be at another camp; we will decide as a group.] DAY 5 (Mar28): After launching, we'll arrive at and explore the beauritul travertine waterfall of Busiljá that cascades directly into the Usumacinta. After a couple of hours exploring the side stream, we'll continue downstream and arrive near the Río Chocoljá confluence where we'll set up camp. DAY 6 (Mar29): The morning will be spent exploring Río Chocoljá by hiking (possibly with kayaks) upstream and paddling back down the lower class III rapids/falls to the confluence. The hike is 0.5-1 km. After lunch, we'll make our way into Cañon San José and encounter one of the biggest rapids the river has to offer, La Linea, named for the border between Guatemala and Mexico on the river-right bank, the rapids in the gorge, and then arrive at Whirlpool camp. DAY 7 (Mar30): We will paddle Whirlpool Rapid (class III) with fine surfing opportunities, then two other big rapids: San José (III) and San Josesito (III), and the final rapid, White Wall (II+) before arriving at our final camp. DAY 8 (Mar31): We will arrive at the take-out around lunchtime, de-rig, and drive back to Palenque where we'll stay at Hotel San Catarino or in cabañas at El Panchan. Eat in hearty restaurant in Palenque. It is possible to depart. DAY 9 (Apr1): Depending on what the group wants to do, there are several options: visit the ruins of Palenque, Cascadas Agua Azul, and/or possibly raft/kayak Río Shumuljá, Chacamax, or Chocoljá. Return to hotel and go to dinner/live music/fire show at Don Mucho's in El Panchan. DAY 10 (Apr2): We will help you get you back to the Villahermosa airport if you need to, either in our vehicle or another. It is a 2 hr drive. [A taxi is 800-1200p; buses are ~150p but also require a taxi transfer.] TRANSPORTATION Tuxtla Gutiérrez (TGZ), the capital of Chiapas, is approximately a 5 hr drive from Palenque. The route between Tuxtla and Palenque passes San Cristóbal de las Casas, a charming colonial city very popular with tourists, and the Cascadas Agua Azul, another of the major tourist destinations in the region. Cancún (CUN) has international flights from just about everywhere, is serviced by most international US carriers, and often is the most inexpensive to fly to. Although it is pretty far away (~11 hr by bus to get to Palenque), you would get to see most of the attractions on the Yucatán peninsula, including it's famed beaches, cenotes, and various other Mayan sites (Chichén Itzá, Coba, and Tulum, for example) before or after the trip. Trip price includes: Price does not include: As of February 2, our group total stands at 1 for the Mar23-Apr1 trip (minimum 5; maximum 14). You may make a deposit or pay a balance with the "donate" button below. ($200 deposit for each person; when paying remaining balances, specify discounts that apply); be sure to send Rocky a message with a little info about you and your group. CANCELLATIONS We reserve the right to cancel the trip at any time. In particular, the trip may not be feasible to run if there are too few contributing individuals (<5 for this trip). If we cancel the trip, all deposits and payments will be refunded. If you must cancel the trip, we reserve the right to keep a percentage of your deposit according to the following guidelines: 5% if you cancel >40 days before the trip YOUR GUIDES: (2) Other guides have yet to be determined. However, there is a high likelihood that German Arroyo will join the trip with a 14' raft. German lives in Mexico City, has been a raft guide for many years, and participated in one of the recent SierraRios Usumacinta trips. Other potential co-guides are Alejandro Quiroga, a rafting/climbing/general guide who lives in San Cristobal and joined one of the recent SierraRios Usumacinta trips, and Miyaya, a rafting guide in Palenque who has run the Usumacinta over a dozen times in the 1980s-1990s.
Breakfast: usually there is a range of foods to choose from: coffee, tea, fruit, hot/cold cereals, milk, yogurt, and perhaps something special such as eggs/omelettes, pancakes, or french toast. General fruits available are oranges, pineapples, mangos, bananas, and/or papayas. If you have specific preferences, let Rocky know and he will accommodate. Lunch: Items typically available are sandwiches, trail mix, dried fruits, granola bars, energy bars, chips, and cookies. Sandwiches can vary: early in trip likely ham/turkey, cheese, avocados, tomatoes, lettuce, mustard, mayo; later maybe tunafish. Peanut butter, jelly, and honey will always be available. There may be wraps or pita/hummus type food one day. Dinner: Rockys dinner menu will include selections from the following types of food: Mexican (tamales, chile rellenos or tacos along with beans/tortillas/guacamole/chips/salsa and possibly tortilla soup), Italian (pasta with marinara, pesto, or alfredo sauce, parmesan cheese, chorizo and/or sauteed squash; salad), Indian (Tasty Bites, curried lentils, couscous or rice), American (turkey, steak, and/or salmon; mashed potatos, sweet potatos, corn, gravy), and maybe Greek/Asian. Meat will always be prepared separate. On this trip, we are limited to food available in Palenque/Villahermosa. If you have preferences, let Rocky know. The meal plan will be sent out about a week before the trip. Desserts: There will always be some form of sweet to eat flan, cookies, chocolates, Snickers/Twix, etc.
ALCOHOL -Do you really enjoy preparing food or specific things like pancakes? Duty list:
Toilet: Urinating should be done directly into the river or away from camp and out of sight of others. We generally will bring a toilet system to carry solid human waste out of the canyon. With this method, at each camp we will set up a groover box with a toilet seat and lid. Someone in charge of this will set up, take down, and clean up if need be. There will be a washing station by the toilet to wash and sterilize your hands after use. Please clean your hands before handling any food! Alternate toilet method: On rivers with few or no visitors, we may use an alternate toilet method. A designated latrine will be excavated away from the camp. A paddle across the path will indicate the spot is occupied; an upright paddle indicates it is not. TP and a TP bag will be by the latrine. TP should be placed in the bag for later burning. A wash station will be nearby - always wash your hands afterward. The latrine will be covered with dirt in the morning before we take off on the river. If you find a latrine disgusting, you may also find your own place to away from camp to somewhere above the high-water line, dig a hole 4-6 deep, and cover your feces. A kayak paddle can come in handy in this regard. Carry your TP back and put in the TP trash bag or burn it at the spot and bury the ashes with the feces. SAFETY Independent of the drug war, there has always been potential danger for assault in Mexico by armed bandits (bandidos). This risk was particularly high in the 1990s on the Usumacinta. Such risk is common in any third world country where citizens are very poor. In the event of assault, we will do all we can to protect our clients and ourselves. However, because we can never guarantee against it, you must acknowledge the possibility and agree not to hold us liable for consequent personal injury/damage/loss you sustain on this outing. There is a special safety concern in Chiapas and the Zapatista areas, which have a lot of residents with lingering animosity towards outsiders, including those obviously Caucasian. It is possible that ill-feelings toward us from villagers along the river will lead to confrontation. Such confrontation would likely involve (a) demands to leave and not return, (b) demand to search our possessions, (c) confiscation of all alcohol/drugs from from our vessels, and/or (d) demand for payment to pass. The villagers are generally civil in these circumstances and only wish to protect themselves. We respect the villagers and will comply with most of their requests to keep peace, and may even engage them to come to certain agreements that will allow our groups to pass in the future. There also is the threat of armed assault and robbery. We will take as many precautions as possible to avoid this, including being less conspicuous when we launch.
WHAT TO PACK: River items to bring: Camp items to bring: KAYAKS, IKs, and RAFTS AVAILABLE FOR THIS TRIP (many of these are big comfy boats; the Jive is great for surf/play): NRS Bandit II (Inflatable Kayak - 1 or 2 person) .A FEW COMMENTS FROM PAST PARTICIPANTS:
"You led one of the best trips I've ever been on... and I've been on a lot. " [2011b Usumacinta trip]
"Thanks for everything, Rocky! What a blast that all was. When's our next trip?!! -Suzy" [2011b Usumacinta trip]
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||